Amundsen’s Gjøa Through the Northwest Passage (1903–1906)
Roald Amundsen bought the small herring boat Gjøa and in 1903 slipped out of Christiania at night to escape his creditors. He spent two winters at a harbour on King William Island, now Gjoa Haven, learning from the Netsilik Inuit how to travel and dress in the Arctic, then threaded the shallow channels westward. After a third winter on the Yukon coast he reached Nome in August 1906, the first to sail the North-West Passage.
15,159 km mapped11 stops1,221 days (about 3.5 years)

Route Map of the Gjøa expedition
- Route from recorded positions
- 1Numbered stop (see the itinerary)
- Ship on the map: steamship (20th century)
Lines are drawn by YearMaps between the recorded stops, kept at sea around Natural Earth coastlines. They show the order and general track of the voyage, not the exact course steered. How the maps are made.
About the Gjøa expedition
Gjøa [jøː.ɑ] is a museum ship and was the first vessel to transit the Northwest Passage. With a crew of six, Roald Amundsen traversed the passage in a three-year journey, finishing in 1906.
From Wikipedia: Gjøa (CC BY-SA 4.0).
Itinerary: 11 Stops
In order of the voyage. Numbers match the map; select a stop to show it there.
Christiania (Oslo)
DepartureThe Gjøa leaves at midnight in a rainstorm, ahead of a creditor.
Godhavn, Disko Island
Port of callDogs and supplies in Greenland.
Beechey Island
Port of callAmundsen visits the Franklin graves and takes magnetic readings.
Gjoa Haven, King William Island
Port of callTwo winters at "the finest little harbour in the world", among the Netsilik Inuit, while the expedition measures the magnetic pole.
Simpson Strait
PassageThe Gjøa threads the shallow strait south of King William Island.
Cambridge Bay
PassageThrough Queen Maud Gulf and Dease Strait.
Meeting the Charles Hansson
EventA whaler from San Francisco: the passage is made.
King Point, Yukon
Port of callIce forces a third winter. Amundsen travels 800 km overland to Eagle, Alaska, to telegraph the news.
Point Barrow
PassageThe Gjøa rounds the north tip of Alaska.
Nome
Port of callNome’s crowd greets the first ship through the North-West Passage.
San Francisco
ArrivalThe Gjøa stayed in Golden Gate Park until 1972, when she was returned to Norway.
Sources: Amundsen’s The North West Passage (1908), via Wikipedia: Gjøa.
Amundsen’s Gjøa Through the Northwest Passage in Depth
Purchase by Amundsen
On March 28, 1901, Amundsen bought her from Asbjørn Sexe of Ullensvang, Norway, for his forthcoming expedition to the Arctic Ocean. Gjøa was much smaller than vessels used by other Arctic expeditions, but Amundsen intended to live off the limited resources of the land and sea through which he was to travel, and reasoned that the land could not sustain a larger crew (this had been a possible cause of the catastrophic failure of Franklin's lost expedition fifty years previously). Her shallow draught would help her traverse the shoals of the Arctic straits. Perhaps most importantly, the ageing ship was all that Amundsen (who was financing his expedition largely by spending his inheritance) could afford.
Amundsen had little experience of Arctic sailing, and so decided to undertake a training expedition before braving the Arctic ice. He engaged Hans Christian Johannsen, her previous owner, and a small crew, and sailed from Tromsø in April 1901. The next five months were spent sealing on the pack ice of the Barents Sea. Following their return to Tromsø in September, Amundsen set about remedying the deficiencies in Gjøa that the trip had exposed. He had a little 13 horsepower (9.7 kilowatts) marine paraffin motor, connected with a winch, for navigation in light winds and to facilitate handlings. Much of the winter was spent upgrading her ice sheathing, as Amundsen knew she would spend several winters iced-in.
Journey through the Northwest Passage
In the spring of 1902, her refit complete, Amundsen sailed Gjøa to Christiania (now Oslo), the capital of Norway. At this time Norway was still in a union with Sweden, and Amundsen hoped the nationalistic spirit which was sweeping the country would attract sponsors willing to underwrite the expedition's growing costs. After much wrangling, and a donation from the Swedish King, Oscar II, he succeeded. By the time Amundsen returned, Norway had gained its independence, and he and his crew were among the new country's first national heroes.
Amundsen served as the expedition leader and Gjøa's master. His crew were Godfred Hansen, a Danish naval lieutenant and Gjøa's first officer; Helmer Hanssen, second officer, an experienced ice pilot who later accompanied Amundsen on subsequent expeditions; Anton Lund, an experienced sealing captain; Peder Ristvedt, chief engineer; Gustav Juel Wiik, second engineer, a gunner in the Royal Norwegian Navy; and Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, cook.
Gjøa left the Oslofjord on June 16, 1903, and made for the Labrador Sea west of Greenland. From there she crossed Baffin Bay and navigated the narrow, icy straits of the Arctic Archipelago. By late September Gjøa was west of the Boothia Peninsula and began to encounter worsening weather and sea ice. Amundsen put her into a natural harbour on the south shore of King William Island; by October 3 she was iced in.
San Francisco
Rather than sail her round Cape Horn and back to Norway, the Norwegian American community in San Francisco prevailed on Amundsen to sell Gjøa to them.
The ship was donated to the city of San Francisco, and the ship was dragged up the beach to the northwest corner of Golden Gate Park, surrounded by a low fence and put on display. Amundsen knew that because of the fame that his exploits aboard Gjøa had earned, he would be able to gain access to Nansen's ship Fram which had been custom-built for ice work and was owned by the Norwegian state. Therefore, Amundsen left Gjøa in San Francisco. He and his crew traveled back to Norway by commercial ship. Of the original expedition members, only Wiik failed to return to Norway, because he had died of illness during the third Arctic winter.
Souvenir hunters and vandals necessitated a fence be erected and a caretaker hired — the gentleman lived in the ship and was enumerated there during the 1910 United States Census...The city installed a seal tank behind the stern of the ship and, according to the Call, the Alaskan fur seal that occupied it acted as an additional nighttime guardian of the boat...Occasionally, the city would be spurred to make repairs and give the Gjøa a paint job (a 1968 visit to the city by Norway’s King Olav provided motivation for one such spruce-up), but generally the vessel that survived the crushing ice of the Arctic seas was a helpless victim to neglect and vandalism.
Sections adapted from Wikipedia: Gjøa (CC BY-SA 4.0).
Pictures of the Gjøa expedition
23 images from Wikimedia Commons. Select one to enlarge it.
Roald Amundsen (1872-1928) in furAnonymousUnknown author · Public domain · Commons View of the main street of the hamlet of Gjoa Haven, NunavutClevelander96 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons Northwest passageUnknown author · Public domain · Commons 2007 Envisat mosaic of Arctic Ocean ESA210015European Space Agency · CC BY-SA 3.0 igo · Commons South Pole markerAlan Light · CC BY 2.0 · Commons Aan de ZuidpoolOlav Bjaaland (1873–1961) · Public domain · Commons Amundsen-scott-south pole station 2007Bill Spindler, U.S. Antarctic Program, National Science Foundation · Public domain · Commons Roald Amundsen as a young boy from 1875.National Library of Norway · CC BY 2.0 · Commons Latham 47.02, in Tromsø shortly before polar explorer Roald Amundsen took off searching for Umberto Nobile, never to be seen again.Anders Beer Wilse · Public domain · Commons Roald Amundsen's ship Maud, built in 1917Anders Beer Wilse (1865 - 1949) · Public domain · Commons Roald Amundsen, Ny-Ålesund, Svalbard, 1925.Preus Museum Anders Beer Wilse · CC BY 2.0 · Commons The Three Polar Stars, 1913 (8889621500)Nasjonalbiblioteket from Norway · CC BY 2.0 · Commons All terrain vehicles are a common mode of transport in Gjoa Haven, September 2019Kerry Raymond · CC BY 4.0 · Commons Qikiqtaq Co-OpTrocker767 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Inuit guardians from Gjoa Haven on MS Ocean Endeavour as part of the trial visitor experience, 2019Kerry Raymond · CC BY 4.0 · Commons Nattilik Heritage Centre, Gjoa Haven, September 2019. Tourists from Adventure Canada milling about.Kerry Raymond · CC BY 4.0 · Commons Sled, Gjoa Haven, September 2019Kerry Raymond · CC BY 4.0 · Commons Sled overlooking townTrocker767 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Sunset over the horizonTrocker767 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons This image shows the Arctic as observed by the Advanced Microwave Scanning Radiometer for EOS (AMSR-E) aboard NASA’s Aqua satellite on September 16, 2007. The image shows a record sea ice minimum in the Arctic.NASA image created by Jesse Allen, using AMSR-E data courtesy of the National Snow and Ice Data (NSIDC), and sea ice extent contours courtesy of Terry Haran… · Public domain · Commons A Nearly Ice-Free Northwest Passage vir 2016222 lrgNASA image by Jeff Schmaltz, LANCE/EOSDIS Rapid Response, using VIIRS data from the Suomi National Polar-orbiting Partnership satellite. · Public domain · Commons The Sea of Ice (The Wreck of Hope) title QS:P1476,en:"The Sea of Ice (The Wreck of Hope) "label QS:Len,"The Sea of Ice (The Wreck of Hope) "label QS:Les,"El mar de hielo"label QS:Leu,"Izotz itsasoa"label…Caspar David Friedrich · Public domain · Commons Chart of the World showing New Route through Canada between England, China, Japan, Australasia and the East. By J. Johnston. Department of Agriculture, Ottawa, Canada, 1886Johnson, George, 1837-1911 and Johnston, J. (John) · Public domain · Commons
Frequently Asked Questions
How long did the Gjøa expedition take?
It lasted 1,221 days (about 3.5 years), from 16 June 1903 to 19 October 1906.
How far did the Gjøa expedition travel?
The route as mapped here, through all 11 stops, is about 15,159 km (8,185 nautical miles). It follows the recorded stops at sea and is a reconstruction, so the true distance sailed was longer.
Who led the Gjøa expedition?
Roald Amundsen, sponsored by Amundsen himself, with support from Fridtjof Nansen and King Oscar II.
What ship was used on the Gjøa expedition?
Gjøa.
Where did the Gjøa expedition start and end?
It started at Christiania (Oslo) (16 June 1903) and ended at San Francisco (19 October 1906).
What did the Gjøa expedition achieve?
First ship to sail the whole Northwest Passage.